Fighting Spring Weeds - Weed Control OKC

Get a Head Start This Winter on Fighting Spring Weeds

This Is What You Should Do in Winter to Fight Weeds Before They Pop Up

Come February, winter may seem endless, but rest assured – spring is right around the corner! With spring, however, come the inevitable fighting spring weeds in your lawn and garden areas. This winter, take these simple steps to get a jump on controlling your weeds.

1. Pre-treat your lawn and garden.

Pre-treating now with a quality pre-emergent solution can prevent weeds from appearing this spring. Choose one designed to tackle your problem weeds – whether it’s crabgrass, dandelions or others. 

Many solutions need to be sprayed while soil temps are between 30 and 50 degrees, so pay attention to local soil reports. If you wait too long, you may miss your opportunity to pre-treat. 
It’s usually best to contact the experts to make sure your weed spraying will be successful.

2. Pull existing weeds.

Get a jump on your weed treatment by using an unseasonably warm day or two to get out there and pull up weeds leftover from the last growing season before they have time to proliferate. Obviously a time with relatively warm soil and without snow on the ground is best. Try to remove as much of the plant as possible, without dropping seeds into your work area.

3. Spot treat new growth.

Even after you’ve pre-treated and pulled weeds, you can spot treat tiny new growths. Use a good solution and avoid contaminating the surrounding plants or grass, as plants are still susceptible to damage during the winter.

4. Keep areas covered.

To prevent weeds from germinating, keep your winter grass as healthy as possible – watch for adequate moisture and nutrition. Consider mulching bare ground areas within your garden or around landscaped areas to prevent weeds from sprouting in the spring.

These are just a few tips for preventing winter weed growth, but they can help you get ahead so you’re not overwhelmed when spring arrives. For more information on winter lawn and garden weed control contact Don’s Pest and Weed Control today.

Sources:

https://gilmour.com/winter-gardening-tips

https://www.scotts.com/en-us/library/lawn-care-basics/winter-lawn-care-tips

 

Weeds May Be Costing You Money - Weed Control OKC

Four Ways You Didn’t Realize Weeds May Be Costing You Money

Weeds May Be Costing You Money! Here’s 4 Reasons Leaving Weeds Is Costlier Than Removing Them

Weeds can be unsightly, especially when they’re disrupting the otherwise beautiful lines of your garden or dotting the flawless green of your lawn. However, did you know that they could also be costing you money? Here are a few common ways weeds could be eating into your pocketbook:

Weeds damage other plants.

Aside from their unsightliness, one of the obvious drawbacks of weeds in your lawn are the damage they inflict on nearby plants. Weeds tend to use more than their fair share of water and nutrients, which may starve desired plants and necessitate their replacement. Treat weeds early in their lifespan to avoid choking or crowding other plants.

Weeds use your water.

Weeds can take water away from more desirable plants, leaving you to water your lawn and wonder why your grass isn’t responding. Remove weeds early in their growth cycle to prevent overuse of water.

Weeds can harm your health.

Weeds, such as ragweed and other high pollen producers, can be harmful to those susceptible to allergy and asthma attacks. In addition, weeds like hogweed pose a threat to the skin if touched, while others, such as water hyacinth, can harm the water supply. Ingesting or touching certain weeds can also harm pets. Avoid medical and drugstore bills by donning gloves to remove weeds, and by pre-treating your lawn and garden in the winter.

Weeds can damage pipes.

Weeds with woody stems can damage sewer pipes, while proliferations of other types of weeds can harm household or irrigation lines. Never allow weeds to grow to seed, and use care in removing them from the affected area. Use a garden fork to break up any roots, and keep a close eye on any suckers that may emerge – treat suckers with an herbicide.

Weeds can cost you time, money, and stress. Often, calling a professional to pre-treat and otherwise take care of weed removal can be less expensive than dealing with the above costs and expense of treating a weed infestation. Contact Don’s Pest and Weed Control to find out how you can save money by investing in the health of your lawn.

Sources:

https://medium.com/@aleetaus/few-reasons-why-weed-control-is-important-1327a4dc4389

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/kill-weeds-sewer-lines-89632.html

https://www.azbestpest.com/weeds-can-damage-plants

Four Ways You Didn’t Realize Weeds May Be Costing You Money

Pest Control - Weed Control OKC

Plants That Act as Natural Pest Barriers

Keep Pests Away Naturally With These Plants

Many homeowners are concerned about bugs and other pests on their property. They are also looking for more organic methods of pest control before they reach for a chemical option. If you are seeking a more natural method of controlling pests, there are a variety of plants that you can grow around your home that act as natural pest deterrents.

Basil

Household pests, like flies and mosquitos, don’t like the smell or taste of basil. Growing it in your garden can protect other plants, while also reducing the number of bites you and your family incur. Additionally, basil can be pumiced and used as a natural insect repellent. Having a basil plant in your home makes it easy to include it in everyday cooking.

Lavender

Lavender repels moths, fleas, flies and mosquitos. In addition to its relaxing and refreshing scent, lavender protects you and your pets from unwanted pests. Hanging lavender around the home helps to keep away bugs, while planting it in full sun garden areas keeps pests away from other flowers.

Mint

Mint is a proven mosquito repellant, and very little needs to be done to use its power. Just strategically place mint near entryways and garden corners to protect other plants. Additionally, it’s perfect for cooking, making tea, or making natural soaps and beauty products that are extra pest-repellent.

Marigolds

It isn’t just herbs that repel pests – flowers have repellant powers, too. Marigolds are especially useful for keeping aphids out of the garden. They even deter some rabbits and small rodents! Protect your garden from mosquitos, aphids, ladybugs, and some furry creatures with marigolds.

If you are looking for pest control in addition to natural solutions, Don’s Pest and Weed Control can help. We offer weed control in OKC, weed spraying in OKC, as well as weed treatment and pest control in OKC.

Sources:

Hello Glow

EssentialHomeAndGarden.com

MNN.com

Weed Control OKC

Weed Control Issues to Handle This Winter

Winter Weeding Guide

Winter can be a great time to get a head start on your spring planting plans, and you can save yourself a lot of time and energy by removing weeds and preventing new weed growth during the cold weather. There are many reasons why winter weeding is a good idea. Here are a few dos and don’ts for winter weeding.

  • Do weed your lawn and garden on a warm winter day. Even in colder climates, it is typical for a January or February day with temperatures near or above 50 degrees to come along. On those days, the top layer of soil will likely not be frozen. It’s the perfect time to use your favorite garden tool to gently dig up small weeds while they are young and easy to pull.
  • Do rake flowerbeds. Particularly in an unseasonably warm winter, weeds start to spring up in flowerbeds. This can overtake flowers that would otherwise come back annually. If possible, take a rake and gently remove small weeds. When remaining weeds reach a half inch in height or taller, rake again.
  • Don’t attempt planting in cold temperatures. Though the weeds are small and hard to see, they are there. Don’t try to plant in cold temperatures without weeding first, or hiring us to do the weeding. Most plants have a better chance to thrive when planted after the last frost.
  • Don’t wait until spring to weed. If you wait until the spring to attack the weeds growing in your lawn and garden, they will have a much stronger hold in the soil. At that point, they are more expensive and time-consuming to get rid of. Additionally, the presence of weeds impacts the health of the flowers you plan to plant and nurture.

Whether you need weed and pest services in the winter or spring, Don’s Pest and Weed Control can help. We offer weed control in OKC, as well as weed treatment in OKC, and weed spraying in OKC. We are happy to offer solutions for your winter weeds.

Sources:

Fine Gardening

Weekend Gardner

Planet Natural Research Center

 

Your Toughest Lawn Questions Answered - Weed Control OKC

Your Toughest Lawn Questions Answered September 2018 Edition

Each month we’ll make a post to answer some common questions about your lawn.

Your Toughest Lawn Questions:

Question 4

Q: I tried out vinegar as an organic weed control on some dandelions in my backyard. Within a couple of days, they looked pretty dead. Could I use this method to kill the existing lawn?

A: Vinegar, or acetic acid, is one of the newest things in weed control. When sprayed on, it has an almost immediate impact, as you discovered. The problem is that it doesn’t kill the roots, so some weeds grow back over time.

To kill a lawn completely, you could spray the household vinegar on weeds and grass that are actively growing. Or, you could apply another dose or two of vinegar before Rototilling and reseeding. You may get a few weeds, but don’t use vinegar or herbicides on them yet. Wait until you’ve cut the new grass three or four times before launching another chemical attack.

Question 5

Q: What’s the easiest way to get rid of grass for patio or walkway installation?

A: The first step in building a new walkway or patio, or planting a new garden bed, usually involves getting rid of the grass. Fortunately, it’s easier to eradicate than to grow, especially if you use the right tools and techniques. Here are a couple of methods to consider.

Grub hoe. For small projects, use muscle power. With a quick chop, the hoe’s 8-inch-wide blade cuts through roots; a tug on the handle rips turf out of the ground. Resist the temptation to swing the tool like a pickax; your back and arms will give out before the job is done. Instead, take short swings, just hard enough to penetrate the root layer—a couple of inches deep, at most. Walk forward as you work, so the cut pieces of sod don’t cover up the grass to be removed.

Sod cutter. For large projects , a gas-powered version from the rental center is the way to go. Using a wide, narrow blade that swings back and forth just below root level, a sod cutter swiftly severs roots, clearing a swath in one swift pass. Then just roll up the grass strips and replant them elsewhere, if you wish.

Question 6

Q: Even after installing black plastic edging and applying several inches of mulch, I find that grass from the lawn still invades our vegetable and flower gardens. How can I keep the lawn from taking over?

A: Sounds like the edging isn’t deep enough. It’s recommended use steel edging that is at least 4 inches deep, and occasionally roots will even go under that. If you really want to be sure the grass won’t invade the bed, use brick standing on edge (8 inches) or cobbles (10 to 12 inches). These methods are a lot of work, and the materials are not cheap to buy.

The inexpensive way to stop the roots is to buy an edger — a hand tool that has a long wooden handle with a thick metal blade on the end. Work the edger along the lawn an inch or two away from the bed, cutting that much off the grass 6 to 8 inches deep, straight down. Leave this vertical edge exposed, with a slope on the other side back up to the level of the bed. Make sure when you mulch that you don’t fill in this V-shaped channel, or the grass will grow into it.

Remove the cut-off grass from the channel and add it to your compost pile. If you don’t, it will end up growing into the bed.

Once or twice a month, run down the edge with a string trimmer turned vertical and trim off any shaggy ends. Be sure to wear safety glasses and ear protection. Between the trimming and the air space in the channel, this will inhibit root growth.

For more Q and A, Follow our “Your Toughest Lawn Questions Answered” Series each month!

Can’t seem to get rid of the dandelions? Read this!

 

Weed Control OKC - Don's

Before You Use A Store-Bought Weed Control in OKC

Looking To DIY Weed Control in OKC?

In the age of information it is easy to gain some confidence in many DIY projects. Here are some facts about DIY products found at most home improvement stores you should know before you start your weed control project.

Liquid lawn fertilizers, whether separate or in weed-and-feeds, are very weak once applied. One bottle said that it provides only 6 to 10 percent of the amount normally recommended for a fertilizer application (which is usually 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet) and that it would “supplement your regular feeding.”

The numbers on liquid bottles, such as 20-0-0, are similar to that on granular bags, but the numbers tell the percentage of that nutrient (nitrogen, phosphorous and potash respectively) by weight in the bottle or bag. So, while both a bottle and a bag may be 20 percent nitrogen, a 2-pound bottle will give you one-tenth of the nitrogen of a 20-pound bag. The number of square feet it says it covers doesn’t make a difference; it is what is inside the container.

Separate applications of weed killers and fertilizers are recommended, rather than weed-and-feeds, for several reasons. First, optimal weed treatment and fertilizing don’t always happen at the same time (though they do this time of year if you are dealing with perennial weeds like creeping Charlie). Second, combinations don’t always have the right chemicals for your situation. Most I have seen contain 2,4-D, which works against some weeds, but is not effective against others, such as creeping Charlie. Finally, fertilizer should be watered in or it will burn the grass, while weed treatment needs to sit on the leaf for it to work.

Liquid weed-and-feed seems like it would be a great idea, but again there is very little “feed” in it. If you really want your efforts to pay off, you are better off buying granular fertilizer and a liquid weed killer.

All of that is for the person who is truly bent on DIY. For those of you that would like to make this process easy, give us a call and we’ll work out all of the formulas and timing to make sure your lawn looks amazing!

Have erosion problems in your yard? Read here!

Your Toughest Lawn Questions Answered - Weed Control OKC

Your Toughest Lawn Questions Answered August 2018 Edition

Each month we’ll make a post to answer some common questions about your lawn.

Your Toughest Lawn Questions:

Question 1

Q: Is it safe to use grass clippings from a chemically treated lawn as mulch for other plants?

A: The main concern here is the chemicals used. While they may be well suited for grass, they may end up harming the other plants. Since all treatments are a bit different it would be wise to test this in a small area before proceeding to use the clippings in full. If the grass was not chemically treated grass clippings do make great mulch.

Question 2

Q: I am a woman who’s getting a little older in age… As I’ve gotten older, I’ve been having a hard time pulling the starter rope on my lawn mower. Is there anything I can do now to prevent this problem going forward?

A: The starter rope of a mower usually gets slightly easier to pull as the mower gets broken in, so it’s possible that something is obstructing the rope or the blade. Following the directions in the owner’s manual, try taking off the pull-start housing and cleaning it out to dislodge any debris that may be inside. This work is pretty easy to do, but you might also have a bent crankshaft, which will need to be fixed by an experienced small-engine repair guy.

Or you might consider buying a new mower without a cord. You can take your pick of electric or battery-powered models, as well as gas mowers with electric starting. With that last type, all you have to do to fire up the engine is hold down a safety-control bar and turn a key. This labor-saving feature raises the price about $100 over an equivalent manual-start gas mower.

Question 3

Q: Am I supposed to sharpen my shovel, posthole digger, hoe, and other digging tools? How do you do that?

A: Yes, it is a good idea to keep all your digging tools sharp because you’ll get more work done in less time and with less effort. The maintenance is easy: All you need is a good pair of heavy leather gloves, a 12-inch mill bastard file, and a vise. Here’s how I keep my digging tools in shape:

1. For safety and stability, secure the tool in the vise by its handle—dished-side up, in the case of shovels and posthole diggers, and blade pointing straight up for hoes.

2. Hold the file with two hands, skewed slightly to the side and flat against the original bevel on the cutting edge. If there’s no bevel left, hold the file tilted 45 degrees off the tool’s face. Push the file toward the handle in straight, even strokes, moving it in only one direction.

3. When the angle has been restored, lay the file flat against the back of the bevel and remove the burr, which forms as you file the metal. A couple of strokes is all you need.

4. Wipe the metal with a penetrating oil, such as WD-40, to discourage rust. If a tool is severely dented or worn, a 4-inch angle grinder fitted with a medium-grit aluminum-oxide wheel will take care of snaggly edges in short order. Be sure to wear hearing protection and goggles when you switch it on. Hold the grinder so that the sparks fly toward the shovel, not at you. When you’re done, touch up the bevel with a file.

Once a tool is sharp, you should only need to file it yearly to keep it keen.

For more Q and A, Follow our “Your Toughest Lawn Questions Answered” Series each month!

Click Here to learn what types of lawn decorations you should avoid!

Lawn Watering Tips - Weed Control OKC

Lawn Watering Tips For Weed Contol

If you’re just looking to do the bear minimum to keep your lawn from burning up, these lawn watering tips are not for you!

Water is an essential part of a happy, healthy lawn. It’s important, though, to make sure you water it properly. If you run a sprinkler at night, for example, it sets up the perfect conditions for disease to take hold. If you water too lightly, the grass roots will not grow deeply enough, setting your lawn up for trouble when hot weather hits.

Follow these steps for a hydrated lawn.

When to Water the Lawn

If you find your lawn has taken on a grayish cast or appears to be dull green, it’s telling you that it needs water. You can also check your lawn by walking on it: If your footprints don’t disappear quickly, it’s because the grass blades don’t have the needed moisture to spring back. While it may seem like you can head out to water your lawn anytime during the day, your lawn actually needs more specific care. Watering in the morning (before 10 a.m.) is the best time for your lawn; it’s cooler and winds tend to be calmer so water can soak into the soil and be absorbed by the grass roots before it can evaporate. If you must water in the evening, try between 4 and 6 p.m. which should give the grass blades time to dry before nightfall. The later you water, the greater chance of disease becoming prevalent in your lawn. It’s worth noting, though, that you don’t necessarily have to water your lawn. Lawns are resilient. Established and properly cared-for lawns can survive weeks without water by going dormant (when the lawn turns brown), then recover once the rain returns.

How Much Water to Use

When watering an established lawn, it’s typically recommended to water until the top 6-8 inches of soil (where most turfgrass roots grow) is wet. Be sure not to overwater your lawn. Most lawns need 1 inch of water per week, either from rain or watering, to soak the soil 6-8 inches deep. The inch of water can either be applied during a single watering or divided into two 1⁄2-inch waterings during the week…. Click the link below to read the rest of this article.

These tips are from Scotts.com Feel free to read the full article here – https://www.scotts.com/en-us/library/lawn-care-basics/lawn-watering-tips-when-best-time-water-your-lawn

If you are concerned about erosion we have an article for that too Preventing Water Erosion

Preventing water erosion on your lawn

Every had an area of you lawn that looks like a landslide happened? Or perhaps there is ditch in the middle of the yard every time that it rains. In the following article, we will be discussing water erosion and how you can help prevent some of the negative effects of water from destroying your lawn.

Preventing water erosion on your lawn

If you have a yard that is sloped, then topsoil erosion is likely to be an issue you will need to deal with at some point. You can identify an eroding lawn by looking for exposed tree roots, puddles, areas that look like a swamp, and places that appear to be dug out or pitted. This can be caused by wind, rainfall, or melting ice all running down the slope of your yard, taking the soil with it. Fortunately, there are some solutions that can help remedy these issues.

A very common and perhaps the easiest way to stop an eroding lawn is to plant flowers, trees, or shrubbery in the affected area. The roots of the vegetation will help to stabilize the soil, and soak up excess water in the area. Cover plants work best for this, as they will act as a shield against rainfall. Another option is to build a retaining wall. By building a retaining wall around plants and flowers, this will act as a shield against rainfall and help to prevent run off by keeping the water in the flower beds.

Also, terracing is option used on slopes by creating multiple flat areas in the steep sections of a hill. This can be a time consuming and costly method, but by planting vegetation on your terraces, it can give an eroded area a huge makeover! Instead of water running off, it is able to soak down into the flattened areas. For more awesome lawn tips, don’t hesitate to contact Don’s Pest and Weed Control!

 

What type of lawn decor to avoid

Some people love to landscape, others hate it, some find it necessary to stay out of trouble with their HOA. Sometimes landscaping can include unique planting designs as well as other lawn decor. But, are there some decorations that are better left in the shed?

What type of lawn decor to avoid

There are horses, cattle, dogs, cats, cottages, deer, pink flamingos… The overcrowded, flea market looking lawns with enough gnomes to populate an island. We’ve all driven by them. Maybe they were ‘that neighbor’, or worse maybe we’ve turned into ‘that neighbor’! What should you never put in your lawn as a piece of decoration? In this article we are going to discuss a few of the lawn decorating no-no’s that you can avoid.

1. Toilets

Perhaps the number one worst, DO NOT put a toilet in your front lawn. With that being said, let’s move on to number two (no pun intended.)

2. Plastic Animals

Pink Flamingos, deer, horses, turtles, or anything that seems cute or funny at the moment, will very quickly be out of style and decrease the curb appeal of your home. Good rule of thumb, if you are the only one in your neighborhood with it, you might consider getting rid of it.

3. Overcrowded 

Sometimes there may not be an issue with style, but with just too much stuff! If all you have to do to your yard is weed eat, you are dealing with an over population of lawn ornaments.

4. Theme

Choose a theme for your home. What do you like to decorate with? Some people like fountains, or a victorian styles. Picking one theme will limit the amount of decor and make the decorating process a lot more simple. This is a huge key in avoiding the flea market-lawn look.

5. Weeds

Whatever you decide to decorate with, avoid allowing weeds to take over your decorations, as this will create a very unkept appearance. If you are dealing with weed problems, it is important to look into solutions for weed control. Just a few things to keep in mind while decorating!